'A Postcard from Bideford New Zealand
Continued from page 2
After an hour we reached the summit and made our way down the windy hair-raising road that opened up the expanse of the Wairapa Plains. Passing through Featherston, Greytown and the area’s centre Masterton, we turn off the main highway. The road got narrower, the cars fewer. A sign proclaims “Bideford 19kms” as we approach a farmer and his cows crossing the road. The cows stop nonchalantly to let us past; the farmer gives us a wave and we wind on through the green rolling hills that could be confused for North Devon, were it not not scattered with Manuka, Rimu and Totara trees . After a steady climb, the road leads down into a lush valley. No souls to be seen except sheep and the odd hawk circling above. The road follows a small river, notably cleaner and smaller than the Torridge, until we approach a junction. To the right, a short road leads to a small school and a large hall.

We park outside the white, weather - boarded structure with “Bideford Hall” written across the top. A flag pole stands out front and a plaque - as is typical outside any New Zealand country hall – with a list of soldiers who served in the two world wars. I can never look at these monuments without wondering about the families disrupted by these events another world away. Often 4 or 5 brothers from a single family would go off to serve; maybe 1 or 2 would return. Bideford New Zealand sent approximately 20 men to each war and only half a dozen crosses mark the fallen who never came back. I begin to wonder where these people actually lived. Only 2 houses can be seen in the vicinity. We take some photos and look towards the school, where some builders can be seen.
We are introduced to the owner Jan Hayman, a friendly, fit-looking builder in shorts and t-shirt with a solid tan and sweat on his brow - it must be about 25 degrees. He shows us into the old school building- closed 5 years ago. Inside it has been converted into a lovely open plan kitchen and living room. The original wood panelling on the walls survives, but Jan assures us it took “three years living in a rat infested garage” to fix it up like this. There is an area dedicated to local history and also several books about Bideford UK. Jan tells us enthusiastically of his visit there several years ago (he stayed at Tantons Hotel). His plans for the school are to create Backpacker accommodation and hopes tourists from Bideford UK might make up some of his clientele. It sure is a tranquil spot and there are trout in the river. We all agree that the name and river are the only real similarities. Jan tells us the school was moved from its original site beside the church in the 1950s because of the frequent flooding of the Tauera River. It is hard to imagine looking at the small trickle that a NZ postal worker was swept to her death only 2 years before. We had missed the church, so Jan gives us directions to it, about 3kms back the way we came.

Excitement builds as we cross a ford (yes a ford!) and wind up the steep shingle path to the church. A solitary one - room structure with a 360 degree view of farmland, forest and a vineyard (Almost everywhere you go in New Zealand there is a vineyard – by no means a bad thing! It must come in handy for Communion too). We find the ancient key inside the drawer by the entrance along with a visitors' book dating back to 1972. Inside the sun streams through the windows like the holy spirit and the pristine pit-sawn totara cladding of the walls and ceiling shine like it was constructed yesterday, not 135 years ago. You can hear the wooden structure creaking in the warm north-westerly wind. We examine the visitors' book and note that several Bideford UK residents have visited in the past :“very different from our church” one comment reads. Legend has it that the area, once known as Upper Tauera, was renamed by the Reverend CH Gossett in 1880 who immigrated here in 1875,.from Bideford UK. Perhaps his inspiration came from the ford at the bottom of the hill? There are also some photos of the centenary celebrations in the mid-1970s. We marvel at the beauty and peaceful nature of this place. Not a single soul do we see.
Later we head south. More people, bigger roads, even towns. We stop for a frozen boysenberry ice cream. It sure has been a great December day. I bet it is cold in Bideford UK right now. This other Bideford may not be the thriving metropolis of its namesake – but what it lacks in population and history it makes up for in serenity and rural charm.
Brett Moodie & Lindsey Allen.
PS If you are interested in visiting Bideford New Zealand contact:Jan Hayman12 Mangapurupuru Rd (School)BidefordWairapaNew Zealand\(+64 6) 3724870